Mumbai or Bombay.

Well, I've arrived in Mumabi, and have now been here about 7 days. So much has happened I don't know what to say. What a MAD place this is.

My first problem came immediately. I entered the country at 4am, with no money and no idea where to go. The ATM at the airport was broken. With no money I couldn't get a taxi. Without a taxi I couldn't get any money. Oooops. OK, I confess, sometimes you should plan ahead... can't believe i just said that.

Short of it is... i swapped 2.50 (english pounds in change) for someone at the airport's $5 bill. I converted that at the Forex buero for 210Rs. Enough for a taxi into the city. I blagged a room at the Salvation Army Hostel and then waited till morning to go find an ATM. Good old HSBC...

Later that day I decided to call up Jessie (from Delhi, but now lives in Mumbai) and found that she was at home, but due to fly out for a week with work. We met for a drink to catch up and she very kindly offered me the use of her flat while she was away. So kind of her, I wasn't sure if to accept but in the end my budget and the need to get clean won out and I accepted. No need for the Salvation Army now...!

So I've spent the best part of this week living as a suburban Mumbaiker up in Kandivali East, with occasional trips into central on the suburban rail link, an hour each way (22p return, unbelievable). I've also been found wandering the streets of Thakur Village, Kandivali, Bandra, jeting around in Auto-Rikshaw and hitting the mall (InOrbit Mall) like a true westerner.

So far my highlights are...

1/ The crazy train journeys. People hanging out of the doors for the whole journey, jumping from the train as its still moving along the platform, people jumping in as its still going, people going hell for leather just to get a seat, people cruhing onto the trains until my pelvis almost snapped into two.

2/ 'Sledgehammer' a classic rock covers band who I saw play at 'Not just Jazz by the Bay'. They rocked the house, it was awesome to hear classic Hendrix and Zeplin coming out of India. Not what i was expecting, but indeed welcome.

3/ An enterprising old man who used the inner folds of his ear to hold his loose change. Maybe you had to see it to appreciate it.

4/ Taking a ride in an Auto (Rikshaw) on the crazy Mumbai highways. There is no order, there is no peace. It's horns at the ready as you weave at full pelt through the suburban sprawl. Never more tha 2 inches away from a hideous road accident, I just dont understand how we aren't all killed instantly. But it seems to work. Road rage isn't concidered a problem, its a neccessity.

5/ Sunset from the wall of Marine Drive on Mumbai's South West side. On a cloudy day what you get is a fire in the sky, silhouetting the opposing penisulars tall buildings beautifully.

6/ Victoria Station. Built by the same man who gave us London's St Pancras Station. Victoria is reminiscent but fells much grander, possibly due to its dominence over its surroundings. I mixture of gothic and Indian. Very inspiring.

On the downside, beggars are becoming a neusance. At first it was a novelty, and I fended their demands off politely as any resposible tourist should. But now after 6 days of it, im getting kind of annoyed by it all. Please can they just leave me alone. Please... Still, it's not so bad. I just wish they didn't make me feel so bad.